Thirteen decal lines for vehicles, glass and exterior surfaces. Most share the same underlying build. Printed or cut vinyl, a laminate over it, and an adhesive matched to the surface. Differing by shape, by where they are applied and by how long they have to last. Filter by where the decal is going.

Printed adhesive vinyl, the general-purpose outdoor decal.

Your size, shape and quantity, nothing standard fits the job.

Clear or white vinyl for glass. It is read through a window.

Cut vinyl for panels and glass. It has to survive car washes and highway grit.

UV laminate over outdoor vinyl. It faces months of sun and rain.

Solid color vinyl, plotter cut, type and logos with no background.

Cut to the artwork outline, no background shape around the logo.

Printed on both faces. It is read from both sides of the glass.

Oval cut. A wordmark wider than it is tall.

Windshield or window permit, an attendant checks it at a glance.

Square cut, most efficient, maximum layout area per sheet.

Circular cut, a seal or badge with no top or bottom.

Equal width and height, qR codes and grid-based layouts.
Surface first, then how long it has to stay there. A painted vehicle panel, a pane of glass and a textured exterior wall each want a different adhesive, and getting that wrong is why decals lift at the edges. It is almost never a failure of the print. Anything facing months of direct sun needs a UV laminate over it, because without one the ink fades long before the vinyl itself gives up, and reds and blues go first.
On glass there is a second decision most people miss: which side. Applied inside, the artwork is reverse-printed so it reads correctly through the pane, and the glass then protects it from weather and from being picked at from the street. Applied outside it is exposed, but it can go on any window you cannot reach from within. Where the design is solid-color type or a logo with no background, cut vinyl gives a cleaner result than a printed decal with a visible edge.